Fish: smoked, salted-- only fish, no- fisherman points at self-- oh of course, I don't want to make you local color, some folk attraction, your fish is just beautiful, peels from skin and from bone smokey, oily. In a plastic bag on a six hour bus trip next to an Utenos "Basketball Celebration" beer. Eaten at a rest stop on cement stairs, scrape scales from nails, wash hands in beer. Return to bus and try not to touch anything with oily fish beer hands. Smile at person in seat next to me, sip on beer when driver isn't looking.
